Does New Canaan need yet another pizza place? Hell, yeah! Especially if the dynamic team, behind Village Social in Mt Kisco, of Chef Mogan Anthony (a competitor on Chopped) and co-owners/cousins Anthony Legato and Joe Bueti are behind the venture. Locali Pizza Bar and Kitchen is due to open its doors very soon... and here, you will find Neapolitan pizza that is as authentic as it gets.
With Locali, the idea is to go back to basics. Making pizza like it used to be made. Using seasonal ingredients and local toppings. A simple small menu which will keep focus on freshness and flavor.
Other items on the menu will be some small plates with hand cut pasta dishes, some mediterranean dishes, vegetable dishes, salads, and a couple of simple desserts. And they all hold a promise of deliciousness. Like the butternut squash dish that I got to taste. It had a delicate cheese sauce, nuts, lavender and a wisp of Indian spice blend - enough to surprise but not overwhelm you.... yet all the while making you wonder what is in it! In this dish I got a taste of local and seasonal bounty (squash) with a hint of France (lavender) and dash of India (spice blend) all rolled into one bite!
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As for the pizza, Chef Mogan puts all the ingredients on the pie, at the same time, in a 700-800 degree oven, for just a short 1-2 minutes! Toppings will be simple yet creative, like the perfectly cooked, super tasty, mozzarella, brussel sprouts, pecorino cheese & pancetta pizza I tried.
Chef Mogan was born in Malaysia, trained in french restaurant, and is now cooking in an Italian restaurant. The fusion of all these cultures and how they compliment each other is going to be the essence of the menu at Locali. Chef Mogan loves to play with textures and flavors. And he loves the role of acid in a dish. He is my kind of chef. :-)
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I asked Anthony (owner), “what makes a good pizza”. “Pizza is a very simple meal”, Anthony told me. When you do a simple pie very well, using the best ingredients and authentic techniques - what you will get is a perfect balance of flavors..... “the perfect pie”! According to Anthony, “when the dough is at a high standard- you don’t need a lot of toppings and garnishes. If someone is putting too much on the pie - they are hiding something.” Hmm...
He said, in Italy, one of his favorite pizzerias offers only two pies: marinara (just sauce and dough) and margarita (just sauce, dough and mozzarella). Naturally the quality, freshness and flavor of those ingredients matter. And so, Anthony wants his margarita pizza to be his best pizza.
Anthony has been researching dough for years. For his research he went back to his roots and how his parents used to do it. The dough has to be chewy, airy, crusty, crispy, and it should have body. Yet, one should be able to eat a whole pie without feeling too full.
Anthony’s mom and dad are from Calabria, Italy. His mom’s family were bread makers. Every morning they would make 300 lbs. of dough by hand. When his mom came to USA, she opened up her own bakery. Ever since his childhood years, Anthony has watched his family make bread and break bread. The smell of bread dough brings back great memories for him. Every sunday his mom would make 30-40 loaves of bread for the family and close relatives. According to Anthony, “pizza is a simple way that a family gets together..... if its done well”.
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