More than the Meatballs Your Mama Used to Make

Written by David Gurliacci

You know what the specialty dish of Meatball & Co. is, but you probably don't know that you can order meatballs in so many unexpected flavors.

How 'bout pastrami reuben? "Deutsch" (bacon, kielbasa, pork and sour kraut)? Asian pork ball with a Hoisin glaze? Or Vietnamese Bahn Mi (including pork, scallions and fish sauce.

"I'm trying to figure out how to make a peanut butter and jelly one," said owner Joe Criscuolo, who opened the restaurant in mid-June. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, veteran of New York City restaurants and of his family's pizza restaurants, he likes to keep the menu interesting.

"You can take any dish and put it into a meatball," he said.

But don't worry -- if you want a traditional meatball, they're always on the menu -- spaghetti too, if you're hankering for it.

On Wednesday, Meatball & Co. at 20 Center St. in Darien had its Grand Opening celebration (state Rep. Terry Wood said she loved them).

Coming up soon -- a meatball with a Cuban theme. Check the eatery's Facebook page for the daily special. (The meatballandco.com website is currently under construction, you can also follow them @meatballandcomp on Twitter).

For desert: try a cookie, made by Criscuolo's wife, Caterina Coccia, a native of the Amalfi coast. The couple are thinking about offering Italian pastries made (in house) the way they do in Italy. Ice cream floats and ice cream sandwiches are also available.

The beer selection is local (well, regional) wine is also on the menu. They have gluten-free dishes and they also do catering.